Dibbing in is an easy and quick planting technique compared to using a trowel. The typical dibber is a stout wooden or metal spike bought from a disbuddinggarden shop or made at home from an old spade handle. These dibbers are for large seedlings. For pot culture and for small seedlings outdoors use a pencil or dowel. The tip of your dibber needs to be rounded rather than sharply pointed.
Dibbing in (or dibbling) involves inserting the dibber suitably deeply into the soil so that the roots will fit comfortably. Place the plant into the hole and then firm the ground by re-inserting the dibber point about 1 - 2 inches away from the stem. Move the dibber towards the plant in an effort to press the soil all around the roots.
This is certainly an effective technique for planting vegetables which have been raised in a seed bed. Brassicas, such as Cabbages, Brussels Sprouts etc, are popular examples. It is also trusted for planting cuttings, but in all cases you must make certain that the hole is no deeper than required. The role of dibbing in is restricted - use a trowel and not a dibber for large size planting material such as bulbs or tubers, and do not use a dibber in heavy, wet soil.
Normally, flower buds in the garden are allowed to grow and open naturally to produce the maximum display. For exhibitors however, and others interested in the size of individual blooms, the flower stems are disbudded. This involves pinching out side buds the moment they can be handled, leaving the central bud to develop into a large specimen to catch the eye of the judge or earn the envy of the neighbours. Chrysanthemums, Dahlias and Carnations are frequently treated this way for show purposes. Many Hybrid Tea Roses produce a lot more than one flower bud at the end of each shoot. With this flower it is nearly always desirable to get the maximum size, so disbudding of side shoots is advisable. Delay taking off side buds if you want to keep back flowering for the day of the show. If the Rose variety produces very full blooms which spoil badly in wet weather, reverse the process and pinch out the terminal bud so that the side buds develop.
There are a number of reasons for earthing up, this means the drawing up of soil towards and all around the stems. Potatoes are earthed up to avoid the tubers being open to light. When the haulm is about 9 inches high a draw hoe is needed to pile loose soil against the stems to form a flat-topped ridge. The greens (Broccoli, Kale, Brussels Sprouts etc) are earthed up for a different reason - soil is drawn up all around the stems of well developed plants to boost anchorage against high winds.
The stems of Celery and Leek are blanched by earthing up. This begins with Celery when it is about 1 foot high - with Leeks it is done in phases, the height being increased a little bit at a time by drawing dry soil all around the stems.
Earthing up is vital on the vegetable plot but it has a place in the herbaceous border. Shoots might appear early during a mild spell in early spring, it is advisable to draw loose soil over them using a hoe so as to avoid damage by severe frosts which can come later.
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