Evergreen Transplanting For Fall

By: Thomas Fryd..

Late summer and early fall weather also is ideal, as a rule, for the planting or transplanting of evergreens. Evergreens are now in a state of semi-quiesence so far as top growth is concerned. Root activity is stimulated by the moisture and lower soil temperatures.
Evergreens planted in early autumn will have plenty of time to get re-established before winter. There are distinct advantages in planting them now. One is that the plants do not have to support new growth now as they would soon after being plant-ed in spring; there is no strain on the roots to support a top that is about to make its greatest growth of the year. Also, as a rule, the weather is more favorable, and reliable in fall than in spring, and there is a longer period of time in which to do the planting. Spring often is an uncertain season in the North. It may be late; it may start early, then fade away in favor of winter; sometimes it is cold and wet all the way with only a few days good for planting evergreens.
To Reduce Winter Injury
The only major risk in fall planting is the possibility of winter injury. This can be reduced to the same minimum expected of spring planting if the planting is done early in the fall, a generous supply of water is given once a week and a thoroughly deep watering is given just before winter.
The beauty which the spring blooming bulbs bring to the garden is the result of plantings done in the fall. Fall is the time to plant hyacinths, crocuses, daffodils and other hardy narcissus, tulips, snowdrops, grape hyacinths and scillas. All of these, except tulips, should go into the ground early so that they will have time enough to produce a good root system before winter soil temperatures put an end to root growth. Early planting is one of the secrets of success with these bulbs. Tulips can be planted much later without involving the risks of winter injury.
Best results are obtained from hardy spring flowering bulbs like the hoya plant when they are planted in fertile, sandy loam soil that is deep enough so that there is at least six inches of good earth under the bulbs. Far too often these bulbs are planted in poor soil and shallow top soil. Although they might flower fairly well the first year, they will do poorly the following years and it won't be long before they run out of flowers or lose out entirely in the annual effort to keep going. Work a complete commercial fertilizer into the soil; mix it in well before planting the bulbs just like what i am doing in my hoya plant. The rule for planting depth is to cover the bulb with earth three times the largest dimension of the bulb.
Tulips do better in the North when planted deep, covering them with six to eight inches of earth. Water them
thoroughly because the soil must be moist to get good root action. A good soaking every ten days in the absence of rain should be adequate. After freezing weather stiffens the top inch or so of earth, cover with six inches of marsh hay for the winter.
Other Things to Plant
Early fall also is the ideal time to plant peonies, mertensia and the biennials (yearlings) such as hollyhocks, foxgloves, Canterbury bells and sweet rocket. Peony and mertensia (Virginia blue bell) roots should be planted so that the uppermost "eyes" (fleshy buds) are covered with two inches of earth. Peonies are especially sensitive to deeper planting; they will not flower when they are too deep in the soil. Mertensias should have at least 12 inches of good soil beneath their roots and peonies do best when they have 18 inches of good earth beneath them.

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